Home Affordability Calculator
Enter what you earn, what you owe and what you have saved. This works backwards to the price a lender is likely to support — and the monthly payment that comes with it.
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💼 Income and debts
Before tax, household total
Car, student loans, card minimums
🏦 Loan terms
🧾 Ongoing costs
Charged below 20% down
📏 Lender rules
28% is the classic rule
36% is the classic rule
🔑 What you can afford
🥧 That monthly payment
📐 How the limits work out
🔀 If something changes
| Change | Price you could afford | Difference |
|---|---|---|
| Rate 1 point lower | $359,290 | ▲ +$24,864 |
| Rate 1 point higher | $312,513 | ▼ −$21,914 |
| Down payment doubled | $401,850 | ▲ +$67,423 |
| Other debts cleared | $334,427 | – $0 |
| 15-year term | $278,651 | ▼ −$55,776 |
Free to use. Results are estimates for general information, not professional advice — see our full disclaimer.
“How much house can I afford” has two answers: the one a lender will sign off on, and the one you can live with. This calculator gives you the first properly — including the costs that quick calculators leave out — and makes it easy to test the second by lowering the limits yourself.
How to use the affordability calculator
- Enter gross income for the household, per year or per month.
- Add up other monthly debt payments — car, student loans, minimum card payments.
- Enter the cash you have for the down payment, plus the rate and term you expect.
- Fill in ongoing costs — property tax, insurance, HOA dues and the mortgage insurance rate.
- Adjust the limits if you want a more cautious answer than 28/36.
The result is the highest price whose full monthly cost still fits inside your limits.
How the calculation works
Two ratios set the budget:
| Rule | Limit | What it covers |
|---|---|---|
| Front-end | 28% of gross monthly income | Housing only: principal, interest, tax, insurance, HOA, PMI |
| Back-end | 36% of gross monthly income | Housing plus every other debt payment |
The smaller of the two becomes your monthly housing budget. Everything else follows from it.
From that budget the calculator finds the highest price whose total monthly cost still fits. It cannot be solved with a single formula, because property tax scales with the price and mortgage insurance switches off once your cash reaches 20% of the price. Instead the calculator tests prices and narrows the range until the payment lands exactly on the budget — the same answer, computed exactly.
Worked examples
A typical case. Income of 100,000 a year is 8,333 a month, so the front-end limit is 2,333 and the back-end limit is 3,000. With 400 a month of car and student loan payments, the back-end rule leaves 2,600 for housing, so the front-end rule is still the binding one at 2,333. With 60,000 down at 6.5% over 30 years, property tax of 1.2% and insurance of 1,800 a year, that budget supports a home in the low 300,000s — well under the “four times income” rule of thumb, because tax, insurance and mortgage insurance take a real bite.
Debt changes everything. Keep the same income and raise the other debts to 900 a month. Now the back-end rule leaves only 2,100 for housing, and the affordable price falls by tens of thousands. Clearing a car loan often buys more house than saving the same amount in cash.
A cautious buyer. Set the housing limit to 22% instead of 28%. The lender would still approve the larger loan, but the payment leaves room for savings, repairs and a bad year.
Common mistakes
- Treating the maximum as the target. Approval limits are based on gross income and ignore everything the lender does not see.
- Using a national average tax rate. Property tax varies enormously between areas. A one percentage point difference can move the affordable price by a five-figure amount.
- Forgetting closing costs. Down payment is not the only cash you need; closing costs are typically a few percent of the price on top.
- Leaving out HOA dues. Lenders count them in full, and they can quietly remove a chunk of the price you qualify for.
- Assuming the payment is fixed forever. A fixed rate fixes principal and interest only. Tax and insurance keep rising.
Glossary
| Term | What it means |
|---|---|
| Front-end ratio | Housing costs divided by gross monthly income |
| Back-end ratio (DTI) | All debt payments divided by gross monthly income |
| PITI | Principal, interest, tax and insurance |
| PMI | Mortgage insurance charged when the down payment is under 20% |
| Pre-approval | A lender’s conditional statement of how much they will lend you |
These figures are estimates for planning, not a pre-approval or financial advice. Once you have a shortlist, run the exact numbers with a lender and with the mortgage calculator.
Frequently asked questions
What is the 28/36 rule?
It is the guideline most lenders start from. Housing costs should stay under 28% of gross monthly income, and all debt payments together - housing plus car, student loans and card minimums - should stay under 36%. Both numbers are adjustable here, because loan programs and individual lenders use their own limits.
Does gross income mean before or after tax?
Before tax. Lenders work from gross pay, which is why an approval can feel larger than your budget really is. If you want a payment you can live with rather than the maximum you can borrow, lower the housing limit to 20% to 25% and see what price that supports.
What counts as a monthly debt payment?
Anything that shows on your credit report as a recurring obligation: car loans and leases, student loans, personal loans, and the minimum payment on credit cards. Utilities, groceries, subscriptions and childcare usually are not counted by the lender, even though they very much affect what you can afford.
Why is my affordable price lower than a bank told me?
Bank calculators often show principal and interest only, or assume a low tax rate. This includes property tax, insurance, HOA dues and mortgage insurance, which together can take a third of the payment. Enter the actual figures for the area you are shopping in and the number becomes realistic.
How much does the down payment change what I can afford?
Cash raises the price you can reach twice over - it adds directly to the price, and above 20% it removes mortgage insurance, freeing part of the monthly budget for the loan. The scenario table on this page shows what doubling your down payment does with your own numbers.
Should I borrow the maximum I am approved for?
Usually not. An approval is a ceiling, not a recommendation, and it ignores maintenance, utilities, repairs, saving and the rest of your life. Many buyers aim a meaningful step below the maximum so the payment stays comfortable if income or rates change.
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